Motorhome Adventures Scotland 🏴 From Smoo Cave to Ullapool via the NC 500 Scenic Route Part 6
A contribution by Wickie On Tour
Smoo Cave, B869 Coastal Route, Ardvreck Castle, Ullapool & Highlands
A day full of coastal views, animal encounters and Scottish delights
After a night at a private pitch near Smoo Cave – with a fantastic view of a bay – we set off in our motorhome in glorious weather along the North Coast 500.
Smoo Cave – Natural wonder with waterfall
After a short drive, we reach the viewpoint at Smoo Cave.
The descent is via a narrow path and a steep wooden staircase with high steps – that alone feels like an adventure.
At the bottom, we stand directly in front of the huge cave entrance, through which a small river flows. Thick moss covers the rock walls, and inside, a waterfall normally plunges down – today, only a gentle trickle.
Along the NC500 and turn-off onto the B869
We continue along the legendary NC500, past rugged cliffs, glittering lochs and rolling hills. Along the way, we spot Highland cattle and red deer, even passing through a herd of cows.
Shortly after, we see a large field full of pigs – a funny sight in the middle of the wild landscape.
Eventually, we turn onto the B869 – a narrow, sometimes very steep side road (up to 26%) that is considered a real insider tip. The views of the coast are spectacular.
📍 Google Maps: B869 Coastal Route
Ardvreck Castle – History at Loch Assynt
On the shore of Loch Assynt lies Ardvreck Castle.
Built around 1590 by the MacLeod clan of Assynt, it was the scene of power struggles – the Marquess of Montrose was also imprisoned here. Today, only ruins remain, which appear particularly mystical in this setting.
We had already visited Dunvegan Castle – the ancestral seat of the MacLeod clan – on the Isle of Skye (see Part 3 of our Scotland series).
📍 Google Maps: Ardvreck Castle
Lunch stop in Ullapool – Culinary highlight
At lunchtime, we reach the charming coastal town of Ullapool. Our destination: Fish & Chips at the restaurant that was voted best in Ullapool and even in all of Scotland in 2023 and 2024.
We sit on the terrace with our portions – harbour view included – and are delighted: crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, simply delicious.
Magical moment at the harbour
Strolling through the village, we see a fisherman feeding a seal on his boat in the harbour – very close and quiet. Such encounters make our trip unforgettable.
Preview of Part 7
After this eventful day, we continue our journey – because tomorrow we want to see the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct, known from the Harry Potter films.
You'll see if we catch the "Hogwarts Express" in Part 7.
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💬 Feel free to write in the comments what you liked most about this stage or if you have already travelled the NC500 yourself.
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Best regards
Kirsten & Robin