Spain by motorhome – We discover an abandoned village! 🇪🇸🚐
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Northern Spain by motorhome – 10 days between desert, vultures & forgotten mountain villages
Northern Spain by motorhome had been on our wish list for a long time. While many tourists head straight for the Spanish coasts, this time we were drawn to the Navarra region. Here, travelers can expect impressive gorges, huge vulture colonies, abandoned mountain villages, and with the Bardenas Reales, a landscape that resembles the Wild West more than Europe.
Our motorhome trip through Spain begins with a long journey, leads us to spectacular viewpoints, and takes us to places many tourists never get to see. The first few days already show why Northern Spain is one of the most exciting regions in the country for us.
Table of Contents
- Arrival in Northern Spain
- Finally arrived in Lumbier
- The Foz de Lumbier and its vultures
- Mirador del Iso – Griffon Vultures over Navarra
- The abandoned village of Iglesia de San Miguel
- Adventurous drive into the Bardenas Reales
- Castildetierra – the landmark of the desert
- Overnight stay in Arguedas
- Conclusion of our first days in Northern Spain
- Click here for the corresponding YouTube video
Arrival in Northern Spain
As so often, our journey began with a significantly longer drive than planned. Already in Germany, we lost valuable time due to several traffic jams. Around Paris, progress was also slow, and we constantly found ourselves in stop-and-go traffic.
Kilometer by kilometer, we made our way towards Spain. Such days are part of a motorhome trip, but eventually, you just look forward to the first quiet campsite.
We finally reached our overnight stop in La Poste around 10 PM. The campsite wasn't spectacular, but pleasantly quiet. After a long day behind the wheel, that was exactly what we needed. As we relaxed into the evening, our anticipation for the upcoming days in Northern Spain grew.
Finally arrived in Lumbier
After about 1,600 kilometers, we finally reached Lumbier in Navarra. The relief was great, as we had two long days of driving behind us.
Lumbier is best known for the famous Foz de Lumbier. Upon arrival, we could already see the impressive rock formations that characterize this region. For the next morning, the first major highlight of our trip was already on the agenda.
We wanted to explore the famous gorge and hoped to encounter the numerous griffon vultures that live here.

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The Foz de Lumbier and its vultures
The next morning, we set off for Foz de Lumbier.
The gorge is one of the most impressive natural experiences in Northern Spain. Massive rock faces rise several hundred meters high on either side, forming an imposing backdrop.
During our stop, we spot two griffon vultures on the rocks – luckily, Kirsten had her telephoto lens with her.
After a short while, we spotted the first griffon vultures. High above the rocks, the enormous birds circled silently on the thermals. Again and again, they glided directly over our heads.
For us, this was one of the most beautiful moments of the journey so far. The combination of untouched nature, steep rock faces, and majestic birds of prey makes Foz de Lumbier an absolute must-stop for anyone exploring Northern Spain by motorhome.
We spent significantly more time here than originally planned and enjoyed every minute in this impressive landscape.
The abandoned village of Iglesia de San Miguel
Another highlight awaited us high up on a mountain.
Our destination was the abandoned village of Iglesia de San Miguel. The last few meters had to be covered on foot, as the path became increasingly steep.
The ruins of the abandoned village around the Iglesia de San Miguel – behind it, an impressive view over the reservoir and the mountain landscape opens up.
Once at the top, a fascinating sight presented itself. The ruins lay deserted in the landscape and looked almost like a film set.
Many buildings are heavily dilapidated, but that's exactly what gives this place its special character. As we walked through the remains of the village, we kept wondering what life here must have been like in the past.
Of course, the drone also had to take off. Only from the air did it become visible how spectacular the location of the village actually is. For us, Iglesia de San Miguel is one of the most exciting lost places of our motorhome trip through Spain.
The ruins of the abandoned village around the Iglesia de San Miguel – behind it, an impressive view over the reservoir and the mountain landscape.
Adventurous drive into the Bardenas Reales
After visiting the abandoned village, we set off for one of the highlights of our Northern Spain trip: the Bardenas Reales.
However, the journey wasn't entirely smooth. Multiple times, the navigation system sent us onto dirt roads that were simply unsuitable for our motorhome.
More than once, we had to turn around and look for a different route. Such situations cost time, but they are somehow part of every road trip.
Finally, we reached the famous semi-desert. Even the first impressions were breathtaking. The landscape looked completely different from anything we had seen in Spain before.
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Castildetierra – the desert's landmark
In the heart of the Bardenas Reales rises Castildetierra.
This striking rock formation is the region's most famous landmark and one of Northern Spain's most popular photo motifs.
When we arrived, we could hardly believe we were still in Europe. The landscape resembled Arizona or the Wild West more than Spain.
Here, the first photos and video recordings of our trip were made. At the same time, we realized that the Bardenas Reales are much more than just a quick photo stop. The region offers countless tracks, viewpoints, and landscapes waiting to be discovered.
For many motorhome travelers, the Bardenas Reales are among the greatest highlights of a trip through Spain – and we could immediately understand why.
Overnight stay in Arguedas
For the night, we drove to Arguedas.
The town is considered an ideal starting point for visits to the Bardenas Reales. A new large motorhome parking area is currently even being built here, as the previous one is regularly full.
We ended the evening relaxing. After the many impressions of the day, we enjoyed the peace and reflected on the first days of our trip.
Vultures, gorges, abandoned villages, and the first impressions of the desert had already exceeded our expectations.
Conclusion of our first days in Northern Spain
Our first days in Northern Spain by motorhome could hardly have been more varied.
From the impressive Foz de Lumbier and the numerous griffon vultures to the abandoned village of Iglesia de San Miguel and the fascinating Bardenas Reales, it had everything.
Anyone who wants to discover Spain by motorhome away from the well-known coastal regions will find a region full of nature, adventure, and extraordinary landscapes in Navarra.
For us, this was the perfect start to a trip that would hold many more highlights. The coming days would lead us even deeper into the fascinating world of Northern Spain.
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