Sweden by Motorhome – En Route to the North Cape

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In autumn 2023, we set off with our camper van Wickie towards the North Cape. The first part of our journey begins in Hirtshals, takes us by ferry to Norway, and then further north via Sweden.

Even during this first leg, we experience some of the moments we were most looking forward to: Swedish Lapland, the Trappstegsforsen, crossing the Arctic Circle near Jokkmokk, and our first Northern Lights of the trip.

This episode focuses primarily on the journey itself. We want to get as far north as possible, but still take our time along the way for a quiet breakfast spot by the lake, a short walk with Don, and an impressive stop at Trappstegsforsen.


📍 Table of Contents:


Start of our North Cape trip in Hirtshals

On September 15, 2023, we reach Hirtshals in Denmark. By this time, we have already covered about 800 kilometers.

The journey goes surprisingly smoothly. We encounter hardly any traffic jams and make good progress without major issues. After this long day of driving, we have a drink and then settle into our camper van for the night.

Camper van Wickie with Don at a simple overnight spot during the journey towards the North Cape

Our first overnight stay after the ferry crossing – in the morning, with only a few degrees, it was already distinctly autumnal.

The next morning, we are scheduled to take the ferry to Norway. Our actual destination is still far away, as we aim to drive as quickly as feasible towards the North Cape in the coming days.

For us, Hirtshals is therefore primarily the starting point of this leg of the journey. From here, we leave Denmark and cross over to Larvik with Wickie.


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With Color Line from Hirtshals to Larvik

September 16 begins with a bit of fog. After getting up, we drive to the port of Hirtshals and prepare for the crossing with Color Line.

Open stern ramp of the Color Line ferry in the port of Hirtshals before the crossing to LarvikAt the port of Hirtshals, our ferry crossing with Color Line to Larvik begins.

The ferry journey from Hirtshals to Larvik takes approximately three hours and 45 minutes. For us, this connection is a pleasant start to our trip through Scandinavia. Instead of driving more long distances over land, we can eat, look around the ship, and relax a bit during the crossing.

Our spot in the restaurant, right at the front window, is particularly nice. This gives us an unobstructed view outside during the crossing, allowing us to enjoy our time on board in peace.

Kirsten eating in the restaurant aboard the Color Line ferry from Hirtshals to Larvik

During the crossing to Larvik, we enjoy our meal in the restaurant on board the Color Line.

After arriving in Larvik, however, we continue our journey directly. We want to cover as many kilometers as possible northwards that day.



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The first kilometers through Norway

After the ferry crossing, we drive approximately another 320 kilometers through Norway. The country greets us with weather we already know from previous trips: it is gray, gloomy, and rainy.

After the long journey and the crossing, we've had enough for the day. We find a simple spot for the night and park Wickie.

The next morning, the thermometer reads only about two to three degrees. Although the sun is shining, it's clearly too chilly in the camper to comfortably drink coffee without heating. So, we turn on the heater again and slowly start our day.

Kirsten with Don next to the camper van Wickie at a sunny rest stop in Sweden

At the overnight stop in Sweden, we make ourselves comfortable with Don next to our camper van Wickie.

The cold morning immediately makes it clear that we are traveling in autumn and are on our way to the far north. However, there is no snow or road closures on this leg. The roads and access routes also present no difficulties.


Breakfast at a lake in Sweden

After starting in Norway, we continue towards Sweden. Eventually, hunger strikes, and we stop at a beautiful lake for a breakfast break.

Camper van Wickie at a green overnight spot with picnic benches in Swedish Lapland

At this quiet overnight spot in Swedish Lapland, we were able to relax a bit after the long drive.

The exact name of the lake is no longer known to us. Nevertheless, for us, it's one of those simple stops that make a long journey particularly pleasant: park Wickie, enjoy the surroundings, and first eat something.

We warm up some rolls in the Omnia. It works better than expected and is just the right thing for a quick break on the go.

Don can also move around a bit at this spot. After that, we continue our journey without a prolonged stop. Our path leads us further north on the E45.


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Arrival in Swedish Lapland

Still on September 17, we reach Swedish Lapland. With every kilometer, the landscape changes. The surroundings appear vaster, calmer, and distinctly more Nordic.

For us, arriving in Lapland is a special moment. We know that we are slowly getting closer to the North Cape, even though there's still a long way ahead.

Along the way, we also playfully hint at Wickie On Tour. Such small scenes are just as much a part of a journey for us as the major sights.

The temperatures are now only about four degrees. Nevertheless, we generally have good weather and can continue our planned route without any changes.

 


Trappstegsforsen and the first Northern Lights

One of the biggest highlights of this first stage is the Trappstegsforsen.

We spend time there filming and taking photos, and walk around the area for about 30 minutes. The path is easy and perfectly manageable with Don. However, dogs must be kept on a leash in this region, so Don remains on his leash during our visit.

Camper van Wickie at Trappstegsforsen in front of an autumnal landscape in Swedish Lapland

At Trappstegsforsen, we stand with Wickie directly in front of the autumnal river landscape.

At Trappstegsforsen, we not only capture footage with the Canon R7 and DJI Action 3. We can also deploy our DJI Mini 3 and film the area from the air.

The drone footage is among the special images of this episode for us. From the air, the landscape can be perceived in a completely different way.

But Trappstegsforsen has another surprise in store for us: here we see the first Northern Lights of this trip.

The sky begins to glow, and suddenly we are under a green light spectacle. These are exactly the moments we hope for on an autumn trip to the north. Being rewarded with Northern Lights so early on this leg makes the evening particularly special for us.

We happily spend the night at this spot. Trappstegsforsen has a toilet, but otherwise the place is rather basic. Overnight stays are free.


Crossing the Arctic Circle by camper van

The next day, we continue north. Along the way, we see some reindeer, which for us immediately belong to Lapland.

Reindeer in the forest in Swedish Lapland during our drive towards the North Cape

Traveling through Swedish Lapland, we encounter a reindeer in the forest.

Later, we reach the Arctic Circle near Jokkmokk. Crossing the Arctic Circle is another important milestone on our way to the North Cape.

We stop, let the special atmosphere sink in, and also give Wickie some attention. Don also gets another opportunity to stretch his legs.

For us, the Arctic Circle is not just a marker on the route. It shows how far we have already come since starting in Hirtshals and that the far north has truly begun.

Large Arctic Circle sign near Jokkmokk in Sweden with numerous stickers from travelers

At the Arctic Circle near Jokkmokk, we reach an important milestone on our way towards the North Cape.

After the stop, we continue our journey. The video doesn't end directly at the Arctic Circle, but at our later overnight spot north of, or rather, beyond Jokkmokk.



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Second Aurora Borealis near Jokkmokk

As dusk falls, we look for a suitable place for the night. We find a free parking spot at a sports field via Park4Night.

We no longer remember the exact name and location of this spot today. Therefore, we do not provide specific coordinates or an exact place name for this parking spot.

Motorhome Wickie with Don at the free parking spot at the sports field near Jokkmokk

We spend the last night of this leg with Don at the free parking spot at the sports field near Jokkmokk.

The spot itself is simple, but it offers everything we need for this night. We park Wickie and hope for a quiet evening.

But the journey has another experience in store for us: We see the Northern Lights here too.

Thus, we are rewarded with a glowing sky twice within a short period. After the first Northern Lights night at Trappstegsforsen, we now experience this special spectacle for a second time.

Green and purple Northern Lights over the motorhome Wickie at the parking spot near Jokkmokk

At the parking spot near Jokkmokk, we are once again rewarded with impressive Northern Lights in the evening.

Happy and tired, we end the day. This parking spot also marks the end of the first part of our journey towards the North Cape.



Our parking spots on this leg

During this leg of the journey, we only use free overnight parking spots.

The first spot is simply next to the road after our onward journey through Norway. It mainly serves as a quiet overnight stop after a long day of driving.

Another overnight spot is at Trappstegsforsen. There is a toilet there, otherwise the spot is simply equipped. For us, the location is particularly crucial, as we can film, photograph, and experience the first Northern Lights of the trip right on site.

The last spot is at a sports field behind or north of Jokkmokk. We found it via Park4Night at the time. Since we no longer know the exact name, we do not want to provide inaccurate information about it.

We have no problems with the roads, access roads, and parking facilities on this leg. The drive on the E45 also goes smoothly.


More posts about this trip

Norway by motorhome – Finally we reach the North Cape

More adventures from our Norway trip autumn 2023

 


Discover more adventures


Our conclusion on the journey to the North Cape

The first part of our North Cape trip is mainly characterized by long driving days. After starting in Hirtshals, we take the ferry to Larvik and then continue north through Norway and Sweden.

Despite the many kilometers, there is still time for small breaks and special experiences. Breakfast at a quiet lake, the arrival in Swedish Lapland, Trappstegsforsen, and the crossing of the Arctic Circle make this journey varied.

However, the greatest highlights for us are the first Northern Lights at Trappstegsforsen and the second Northern Lights experience near Jokkmokk.

Thus, our journey towards the North Cape begins exactly as we had hoped: with vast landscapes, cold autumn days, reindeer, and a glowing sky.

You can find the full video of this trip on our YouTube channel:

Sweden by motorhome – On the way to the North Cape
https://youtu.be/g69Xy3qGvRQ

If you prefer to experience our journey in moving pictures, feel free to visit our YouTube channel Wickie On Tour. There we take you across all five Alpine passes, show our parking spaces and share many other impressions and experiences that are difficult to capture in a blog.

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